Denim Branches Out

The American classic is being redefined this season as designers broaden what it means to be jeans. By daring to flare, bulking up with cargo pockets and ditching denim completely, the industry is moving beyond basic blue. Here, denim experts dish on the trendy knits and silhouettes coming for fall.

Flare Up

Skinny is still the go-to silhouette for kids, but a favorite fit from the Millennium is working its way back into rotation: the flare. “The buzz in the denim market is about the new flare jean,” Jennifer Aramburu, executive vice president at Haddad and the brand manager for Levi’s Kids, says. “This jean is fitted on the top, through the thigh and flares just below the knee.” Claire Ruskey, director of design and production at Pinc Premium, notes that her brand will be launching a similar silhouette: “Pinc is keeping the fit skinny for the most part, with the exception of a skinny flare fit, which is skinny through thigh and knee then flares starting at the calf.” Z Cavaricci Sales Executive Jeffrey Gindi says his brand is also trying out some new flare and boot cut silhouettes, reducing the number of skinny styles to 70 percent of the collection, down from 90 percent last year. Albert Dahan, CEO of Kids Jeans LLC, the licensee for the kids’ division of Joe’s Jeans, is also on board with the trend. He adds that his colleagues at Joe’s Jeans think the new “skinny micro-flare” look for fall is “the next new body.” However, super-slim jeans are still the most popular pick for both boys and girls.

Carry On

Another late-’90s trend gets a streamlined look for fall as classic cargo pants slim down. “We think the skinny cargo twill body is going to be a strong category going forward,” Gindi says. Dahan anticipates that the style, which he describes as “basically a jegging with cargo pockets,” will be next season’s big hit for Joe’s Jeans. The brand will be launching the cut in three different variations: super-stretch denim, twill and camel. “We’re really seeing the importance of skinny cargo jeans, both in indigo and olive,” agrees Sandra Finkelstein, vice president of Parigi Group, licensee for a stable of fashion brands including kids’ labels for DKNY, Timberland, Akademiks, Phat Farm and Baby Phat. It’s all part of a “progression from core skinny to fashion skinny,” she explains, as last year’s simple skinny silhouette is dressed up with new fabrics, washes and pocket features. Similar to the new cargo trend, DKNY Kids will be launching a sophisticated silhouette in lightweight denim for girls sizes 7 to 16, which Finkelstein describes as “reminiscent of a slouchy trouser,” with double pleats and flush pockets, but a skinny leg from the knee-down.

Repair Men

Boys’ jeans retain rugged workman grit this season. “Workwear details like enlarged pockets are still really important,” Finkelstein says, noting that the pockets are more heavily constructed and the stitching details are heavier than seasons past, but the overall garment and wash is cleaner, with less “rip and repair.” Gindi says the same is true for girls at Z. Cavaricci, as embellishment is giving way to clean styles. Simple, sophisticated looks feature barely-there details, like pleating, whiskering and subtle distressing, rather than heavy bling or embroidery. However, some brands are carrying forward last year’s rocker-chic styles, like Pinc Premium, whose fall jeans feature metal studding with silver and copper embroidery. Aramburu notes that Levi’s is also continuing with zipper and stud details, since it’s still a big trend on the market.

Vintage Look

In lieu of excessive hardware embellishment, some designers are spicing up this season’s sophisticated denim by relying on fun, vintage rinses for fall. “What’s coming right now is a vintage looking wash for denim,” says Vee Lapnarongchai, creative director for Mali Kids. “It’s an old Levi’s sort of washing.” The brand is also rocking a retro look by using subtle patchwork techniques and a wide-leg ’70s silhouette, he says. Fittingly, classic washes are coming back this season at Levi’s, too. “We also have many washes reading very blue and have a vintage feel to them, like in our washes Serene Blue and Blue Daisy,” Aramburu says.

Knit Picks

As more manufacturers hustle to jump on the leggings, treggings and jeggings bandwagon, it’s no surprise that one of the biggest denim stories for fall doesn’t involve denim. “We’re really trying to get behind non-denim fabrics, like twill and canvas for boys and ponte knit for girls,” says Finkelstein. For girls, DKNY Kids will be offering knit jeggings in several hues, including black, limestone, olive and an indigo that resembles denim. Dahan says Joe’s Jeans is also getting behind jeggings, as he notes that demand for the super-stretch style has shown no signs of slowing down. Likewise, Gindi believes treggings—what he describes as knit denim pants with a fully constructed waistband and zipper—will be strong sellers for his company this fall. The popularity of these styles is partly about practicality, as pure denim in super-skinny silhouettes is simply not as comfortable.

In the Dark

When it comes to color, “the darker, the better,” says Gindi, noting that “blue-black” is currently the most popular denim hue. Manufacturers agree that dark denim is a top pick for fall, followed by military-inspired colors like olive and limestone, which have been popping up in non-denim fabrics. Fitting the trend, Diesel Kids will be launching a camouflage denim, says Maddie Lazo, director of sales. With dark-hued jeans all the rage, bright colors are taking a backseat for some brands this season. Levi’s is cutting back on its saturated colored denim, according to Aramburu. On the other hand, Pinc Premium is introducing some poppy pieces for fall, including jeans in turquoise and purple, reports Ruskey. But, she agrees, “the dark wash is definitely most popular” with buyers.

The Verdict: Retailers need only to take a look at the backs of their own closets to see what’s hot in denim for fall, as trends cycles back to the ’70s and late-’90s. Skinny jeans still rule but the fall season is poised to reel in a new generation’s interest in flares, cargo pockets and vintage washes. Denim designers predict that super-dark, super-slim denim and knits with a late-90’s twist—be it flare bottoms or cargo pockets—are fall’s best bet for girls. For boys, jeans are lean, clean and rugged, with bold pockets and heavy stitching. —Audrey Goodson