Whimsy and novelty permeated the Fall ’10 shows in Europe, resulting in fresh ideas and tweaks on existing concepts all designed to evoke a “gotta-have-it” feeling in shoppers. Though consumers may still be wary of unnecessary expenditures, they can be wooed by something new so long as it represents value, according to Jamie Ross, creative director of The Doneger Group, a trend forecasting firm. “Consumers aren’t interested in anything that screams ‘last year,’” she stated. “It can’t be something they have in their closet already.”
The junior and adult markets still serve as huge influences for the children’s category, but designers are taking liberties with their interpretations. For instance, preppy, which has overtaken the men’s urban market, remains a strong direction in kids’ wear as well, but in the littler sizes collections pop in fun elements like trompe l’oeil pockets and deconstructed argyles. Instead of getting mired in the heaviness surrounding our economic outlook, children’s brands strike a consciously fun, fanciful tone. For instance, nothing is more optimistic than designers’ exuberant use of novelty graph- ics and accents or the generous helping of fur pieces that cropped up in many lines. In general, this season’s collections showed less restraint than in the recent past, and designers were rewarded with healthy traffic at the shows. “Over the summer the shows were quiet and the buyers were unsure,” said Melissa Hago, trend editor at style forecaster Fashion Snoops. “But people were feeling more comfortable this time.”
EASY DOES IT
Sportswear takes an active turn as designers employ soft, casual fabrics to undercut the formalness of structured silhouettes, according to Khalym Schell, children’s trend editor for the forecasting firm Stylesight. In some groupings this means vests and blazers cut from fleece or knits; in others, traditional tailored bodies are paired with sweats. “The silhouette reads tailored but in fleece or heavy knit the items can be worn every day for playdates and school,” Schell explained.
FLIGHTS OF FANCY
Fashion observers noted a fairytale, escapist quality to many designs, which isn’t a surprise given the sometimes harsh realities of this economy. “Designers are finding a place that feels like home that is comforting and feels nostalgic,” Schell noted. “They’re gravitating to fun ideas because it reflects how they felt when they had no responsibilities.” Schell pointed to what she calls “everyday costumes”: garments adorned with tails, capes and other elements borrowed from the dress-up trunk.
COZYING UP
Tough times have produced a look inward, putting an emphasis on experiences rather than ownership, according to Fiona Coleman, senior kids’ wear editor at Worth Global Style Network. “We call this trend ‘Emotive.’ It is less about owning things and more about emotional connection, memory and meaning. With the economy the way it is, people are wanting to look back and inside instead of looking at the world around them.” These ideals are represented by literal icons like hearts and messages of love and friendship, and figuratively through chunky knits, buttery cords, brushed checks, updated Fair Isle sweaters and warm thermals.
PARISIAN CHIC
Girly trappings are abundantly plentiful for fall. Ruffles—a designer favorite for seasons now—take an offbeat twist. “Ruffles are off-kilter and less traditional,” Ross described. “They are asymmetrical or cascading on everything from dresses to tees.” Trompe l’oeil effects made a statement in spring with a wealth of eye-catching faux necklaces and patterns. For fall, Schell said the look has become more subtle with tonal lace or cable knit prints. Ruffles, fur and teaser artwork run rampant through most groupings, but none more so than in what Hago has termed “Parisian chic.” The hallmarks of this trend include Chanelinspired styling in black, white and powder pink.
ALSO LOOK FOR:
• Military to trickle down from adults’ apparel, commanding attention in kids’ through styles like structured jackets and cargo pants. Pairings with voluminous tutus and treatments like faux insignia keep the look from becoming too severe.
• The ’80s vibe to continue with activewear pieces that tie back to the movie “Fame,” such as oversized hoodies, cropped tops and stencil screenprints.
• Grunge to pick up where the ’90s Seattle movement left off, with lots of layering.
• A continuation of the folkloric direction. Rich reds, blues and forest greens overtake the folktale influence this season, which Coleman said ties back into designers’ escapism instinct. The trend sees lots of pattern mixing and tons of rich embellishments.
